If a car has been in a serious accident, flood or fire, an insurer may declare it a "write-off", meaning it costs more to repair than it is worth. The car is then given a category that tells you how badly it was damaged and whether it can ever go back on the road.
There are four categories. Two mean the car is finished. Two mean it can be repaired and driven again, and those are the ones you need to think hardest about before buying.
The four write-off categories
| Category | What it means | Road legal again? |
|---|---|---|
| Cat A | Scrap only. The entire car must be crushed, including parts. | Never |
| Cat B | Body shell must be destroyed. Some parts can be salvaged and reused. | Never |
| Cat S | Structural damage (chassis, crumple zones) that can be repaired. | Yes, after repair |
| Cat N | Non-structural damage (cosmetic, electrical, sometimes steering or brakes). | Yes, after repair |
Cat S and Cat N replaced the older Cat C and Cat D in October 2017. The old system was based on repair cost, the new one is based on the type of damage. You will still see Cat C and Cat D on older write-offs: roughly, Cat C is comparable to Cat S and Cat D to Cat N.
Cat S: structural damage, repaired
Cat S means the car suffered structural damage, to the chassis, frame or crumple zones, but it was economic to repair. Once repaired, it can be re-registered with the DVLA and driven legally.
The key question is who repaired it and how well. Structural repairs done properly are safe; done badly, they can affect how the car protects you in another crash. Never buy a Cat S car without seeing evidence of the repair and ideally an independent inspection.
Cat N: non-structural damage, repaired
Cat N covers damage that is not structural: panels, lights, bumpers, electrical faults, and sometimes items like steering, brakes or airbags. The chassis is sound. These are often the most sensible used buys of the write-off categories, but "non-structural" does not always mean "cosmetic", so check exactly what was damaged.
Is a Cat S or Cat N car worth buying?
It can be a genuine bargain, or a money pit. The honest trade-offs:
- Price. Expect to pay roughly 20 to 40 percent less than a clean equivalent. If the discount is small, the risk is not worth it.
- Insurance. Some insurers charge more, or decline a written-off car. Check you can insure it before you buy.
- Resale. A recorded write-off stays on the car's history forever and will put off future buyers, so it is harder to sell on.
- Repair quality. This is everything. See the engineer's report, photos of the damage, and proof of the repair. Get an independent inspection for anything structural.
How to check if a car has been written off
A write-off is not always obvious from looking at the car, especially after a tidy repair, and a seller is not always upfront about it. The reliable way to know is a vehicle history check, which shows any recorded write-off and its category.
CarMate's History Check uses Experian provenance data to flag write-offs alongside outstanding finance, stolen markers and the full mileage history, and it is backed by a data guarantee from £10,000. So before you view a car, you can already know whether its history is clean, or whether that price looks low for a reason.
For a closer look at when a written-off car is and is not worth it, see our guide on whether a Cat N car is worth buying.